Looking at a 325es tomorrow. What should I look for?
- Thread starter wood_e
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wood_e said:
Hey,
As some of you may know I am probably buying a 325es. I am looking at a local one this weekend and I would like to know what I should look for on the model. Things such as common trouble spots and issues with the car.
Thanks!
![[wave]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_wave.gif "Wave [wave]")
As some of you may know I am probably buying a 325es. I am looking at a local one this weekend and I would like to know what I should look for on the model. Things such as common trouble spots and issues with the car.
Thanks!
Don't get screwed man, find a good car, and you will forever be in love with bimmers..
Wise man say 'He who screws last, get sloppy seconds!'
Thanks for the reply
Yeah I mean I'm probably going to give the engine a good once over myself. Remove a plug or two to check for a prolonged lean or rich condition, Drive it around, make sure it shifts alright, check the fluids and such. At the price their asking I am NOT expecting a perfect BMW, I'm expecting sometihng needing a bit of work of which I am not afraid to take on.
I was wondering also if I could trigger the on board diagnostics to check for fault codes...
Yeah I mean I'm probably going to give the engine a good once over myself. Remove a plug or two to check for a prolonged lean or rich condition, Drive it around, make sure it shifts alright, check the fluids and such. At the price their asking I am NOT expecting a perfect BMW, I'm expecting sometihng needing a bit of work of which I am not afraid to take on.
I was wondering also if I could trigger the on board diagnostics to check for fault codes...
I posted a msg that had some BMW codes I found on the net, including one that did that, not sureif it was just for a E46 (It *might* have been for any sort of BMW, we were debating that on some of the items. Let me find that post for ya...)
http://www.bmwboard.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5805&highlight=bmw+code
I think it *was* just for an E46 now after seeing it.. Take a look and try though.. I'm sure there's something similar out there on the 'net in relation to your e model!
Good luck tomorrow, give us some pics to stare at once you find your baby.![[thumb]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumb.gif "Thumbs Up [thumb]")
http://www.bmwboard.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5805&highlight=bmw+code
I think it *was* just for an E46 now after seeing it.. Take a look and try though.. I'm sure there's something similar out there on the 'net in relation to your e model!
Good luck tomorrow, give us some pics to stare at once you find your baby.
While the engine is computer controlled, the ETA engine/DME in the 325e and 325es does not have onboard diagnostics, so you can't pull codes from it. The car does not have a Service Engine Soon light. The 325i's and the 325is's had onboard diagnostics, and codes can be read from them, but not the e's.
I took my 325e to a local independent BMW-only shop and had the car inspected before I bought it. The car had a problem with the A/C that I wanted to be checked out before I bought the car - turned out it was just a nicked wire, so it cost me $50 for the one hour of labor to fix the wire and to have the rest of the car inspected. Paying an hour of labor to a shop to have them give the car a once over before purchase is definitely a good thing to do.
Some things that should be checked out:
Timing belt - a MUST- make sure you know when it was last replaced before buying the car. If the owner can't or won't tell you, then you need to have it changed after purchasing the car. If this is the case, then figure in the price of having it done or doing it yourself into the cost of the car.
A/C - if you care about functioning A/C, make sure it works well and is cold - A/C problems can get expensive really fast on these cars.
Brakes - pretty obvious, but assess the condition of brake pads and rotors
Front suspension - a weak point on neglected E30s - control arm ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, and steering rack wear on these cars and periodically need to be replaced. Problems with these components will often manifest themselves as steering wheel/front end vibration at interstate speeds. Individual pieces aren't very expensive, but if lots of stuff is worn, then it adds up quickly.
Wheel bearings - more problematic on high mileage cars (like mine) - manifest themselves as a droning noise that increases with speed - can be expensive to replace. I've got estimates of about $600 for new wheel bearings all around - it's a 5 hour job just for the rear ones and requires special BMW tools to do the job properly.
Beware of electrical gremlins. My car is pretty much electrical gremlin free, but from what I understand, some people have electrical system problems.
Other than these problem areas, just inspect the car like you would any other used car and make sure everything works, or be sure that you know about what doesn't work before buying the car. They are great cars and are affordable to drive if they have been taken care of - mine has been great so far and trouble free. If they have been neglected, then they can become very expensive. Just learn as much about this particular car's service history as you can before buying it.
If you don't mind me asking, how much does the seller want for the car? I hope this helped, and definitely keep us posted.
I took my 325e to a local independent BMW-only shop and had the car inspected before I bought it. The car had a problem with the A/C that I wanted to be checked out before I bought the car - turned out it was just a nicked wire, so it cost me $50 for the one hour of labor to fix the wire and to have the rest of the car inspected. Paying an hour of labor to a shop to have them give the car a once over before purchase is definitely a good thing to do.
Some things that should be checked out:
Timing belt - a MUST- make sure you know when it was last replaced before buying the car. If the owner can't or won't tell you, then you need to have it changed after purchasing the car. If this is the case, then figure in the price of having it done or doing it yourself into the cost of the car.
A/C - if you care about functioning A/C, make sure it works well and is cold - A/C problems can get expensive really fast on these cars.
Brakes - pretty obvious, but assess the condition of brake pads and rotors
Front suspension - a weak point on neglected E30s - control arm ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, and steering rack wear on these cars and periodically need to be replaced. Problems with these components will often manifest themselves as steering wheel/front end vibration at interstate speeds. Individual pieces aren't very expensive, but if lots of stuff is worn, then it adds up quickly.
Wheel bearings - more problematic on high mileage cars (like mine) - manifest themselves as a droning noise that increases with speed - can be expensive to replace. I've got estimates of about $600 for new wheel bearings all around - it's a 5 hour job just for the rear ones and requires special BMW tools to do the job properly.
Beware of electrical gremlins. My car is pretty much electrical gremlin free, but from what I understand, some people have electrical system problems.
Other than these problem areas, just inspect the car like you would any other used car and make sure everything works, or be sure that you know about what doesn't work before buying the car. They are great cars and are affordable to drive if they have been taken care of - mine has been great so far and trouble free. If they have been neglected, then they can become very expensive. Just learn as much about this particular car's service history as you can before buying it.
If you don't mind me asking, how much does the seller want for the car? I hope this helped, and definitely keep us posted.
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Well a friend and I took a ride out to see the ES.
Our first impressions:
The rust was sparse. It was in the expected places (fenders, gas door) and some undercarriage rust was on it.
The interior was a little hacked apart. The guy was trying to put a mass air flow meter on with adjustable voltages and such. That mod probably shouldn't have been there. The glove box was missing (although he does have one) and wires were dangling out. There was no shift boot, and the original shift knob was gone (a momo knob was put in place). Back seats were in good shape. Front seats were less than perfect. There was considerable wear on each. Front air dam was not on the car (but in minnesota with ground clearence issues that might have been a personal prefference). The grill looked good, and the lights looked like they were in good shape. The right rear light was busted, and possibly had some body damage there. Rims could've used a good cleaning. We also noticed rear tinted windows... a product of the pervious owner...
And now we turn the key.......
The engine fired up with little hesitation. It idled smoothly, no ticks or knocks. We opened the hood to reveal an exceptionally clean engine bay. We listened to it idle for a while. We were then drawn to the back of the car where the owner reved the engine. He had a cat back system on it with a ractive muffler on it as well. The soud was nice but slightly raspy at higher RPMs. The gauges worked except for the temperature gauge. I think the sender might need to be replaced.
Now we back it out amd took her for a ride.....![[driving]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_driving.gif "Driving [driving]")
Well the drive was interesting to say the least. For one there is a clunking in the rear end ONLY in 1st gear, and only if you step on it. You can powershift into 2nd and 3rd all day and not hear the clunk. The left front sounded odd. There was a clunk there too, I attribute it to a missing or loose caliper bolt.
Being a man of limited 5 speed ability I found this car was absurdly hard to get into reverse, and into 1st for that matter. Clearly there is some work that needs to be done there. That said once I found the gear there was no ill sounding noises or grinding. It probably could use a new shift mechanism. The shifting was loose and had long throws from what I have been used to. Appearently the previous owner decided to fake a short shifter... you get what you pay for...
The gas pedal was VERY stiff, but the owner attributed it to the cold. He could be right, he could be wrong. Maybe a little WD-40 would make it a little better? Braking was nice, the car was equipped with cross drilled front and rear rotors. If it wasn't for the caliper bolt in the front I would say it was perfect. The anti lock brakes did not work. The moron who owned the car before decided to clip the wire... sigh...![[?|]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_banghead.gif "Bang Head [?|]")
Steering was percise and direct. The power assist wasn't there, but that isn't a concern for me. The car could probably use new bushings on suspension parts, and the owner before this one lowered it, so the camber is probably off.
Overall impressions:
Well I wasn't expecting any miracles for his asking price of $1200... and I don't think I got any except a drivetrain with 129K. I don't know what to do as this car obviously needs work, but its not like it was a bad car. It could easily be used as a daily driver as is if one is not a perfectionist about quirks. I'm not sure whether or not to buy it because of certain things wrong with it. I can say that it did have some tasteful upgrades, and the engine ran great.
Any oppinions?
Our first impressions:
The rust was sparse. It was in the expected places (fenders, gas door) and some undercarriage rust was on it.
The interior was a little hacked apart. The guy was trying to put a mass air flow meter on with adjustable voltages and such. That mod probably shouldn't have been there. The glove box was missing (although he does have one) and wires were dangling out. There was no shift boot, and the original shift knob was gone (a momo knob was put in place). Back seats were in good shape. Front seats were less than perfect. There was considerable wear on each. Front air dam was not on the car (but in minnesota with ground clearence issues that might have been a personal prefference). The grill looked good, and the lights looked like they were in good shape. The right rear light was busted, and possibly had some body damage there. Rims could've used a good cleaning. We also noticed rear tinted windows... a product of the pervious owner...
And now we turn the key.......
The engine fired up with little hesitation. It idled smoothly, no ticks or knocks. We opened the hood to reveal an exceptionally clean engine bay. We listened to it idle for a while. We were then drawn to the back of the car where the owner reved the engine. He had a cat back system on it with a ractive muffler on it as well. The soud was nice but slightly raspy at higher RPMs. The gauges worked except for the temperature gauge. I think the sender might need to be replaced.
Now we back it out amd took her for a ride.....
Well the drive was interesting to say the least. For one there is a clunking in the rear end ONLY in 1st gear, and only if you step on it. You can powershift into 2nd and 3rd all day and not hear the clunk. The left front sounded odd. There was a clunk there too, I attribute it to a missing or loose caliper bolt.
Being a man of limited 5 speed ability I found this car was absurdly hard to get into reverse, and into 1st for that matter. Clearly there is some work that needs to be done there. That said once I found the gear there was no ill sounding noises or grinding. It probably could use a new shift mechanism. The shifting was loose and had long throws from what I have been used to. Appearently the previous owner decided to fake a short shifter... you get what you pay for...
The gas pedal was VERY stiff, but the owner attributed it to the cold. He could be right, he could be wrong. Maybe a little WD-40 would make it a little better? Braking was nice, the car was equipped with cross drilled front and rear rotors. If it wasn't for the caliper bolt in the front I would say it was perfect. The anti lock brakes did not work. The moron who owned the car before decided to clip the wire... sigh...
Steering was percise and direct. The power assist wasn't there, but that isn't a concern for me. The car could probably use new bushings on suspension parts, and the owner before this one lowered it, so the camber is probably off.
Overall impressions:
Well I wasn't expecting any miracles for his asking price of $1200... and I don't think I got any except a drivetrain with 129K. I don't know what to do as this car obviously needs work, but its not like it was a bad car. It could easily be used as a daily driver as is if one is not a perfectionist about quirks. I'm not sure whether or not to buy it because of certain things wrong with it. I can say that it did have some tasteful upgrades, and the engine ran great.
Any oppinions?
Hmmm, I don't know. I don't know quite what your plans are for the car, but it seems like it needs a lot of work. What are your plans for the car - tearing it apart and modifying it, or using it as a daily driver?
The gas pedal shouldn't be stiff - mine is never stiff no matter how cold. If it needs alot of suspension work and new front seats, those things will add up fast. It probably needs new bushings in the shifter mechanism - no big deal - mine is a little sloppy from bushing wear as well. Is the power assist not there because the rack leaks? The clunk in the rear is probably a worn shock mount (weak point on these cars) or could be worn trailing arm bushings - no big deal if it's just the shock mount. How's the paint?
Like I said, I got mine for $1500 - extremely well-maintained with service history records, all stock and unmodified (except for a really nice stereo and speakers), and everything works just like it's supposed to. However, my car does have twice the amount of miles that the one you are looking at has and the paint isn't great on it.
The gas pedal shouldn't be stiff - mine is never stiff no matter how cold. If it needs alot of suspension work and new front seats, those things will add up fast. It probably needs new bushings in the shifter mechanism - no big deal - mine is a little sloppy from bushing wear as well. Is the power assist not there because the rack leaks? The clunk in the rear is probably a worn shock mount (weak point on these cars) or could be worn trailing arm bushings - no big deal if it's just the shock mount. How's the paint?
Like I said, I got mine for $1500 - extremely well-maintained with service history records, all stock and unmodified (except for a really nice stereo and speakers), and everything works just like it's supposed to. However, my car does have twice the amount of miles that the one you are looking at has and the paint isn't great on it.
Well I see this as a gradual restoration and a back up car. I am in college now and my SHOs transmission seems to be on its last 10k. I would like to restore this car to a nice looking and driving e30.
I'd like to fix the rusty spots on it, and make it presentable. Kind of a gift to myself for graduating from college. As it stands now it might need new shift bushings. a shift boot and a new knod (not a fan of the momo knob). Then it would be a viable driver.
How much do new shift bushings cost?
I think the rack is leaking so thats why theres no power steering. The paint is pretty good from what I can tell. The rusty spots were a drawback from how the paint looked. Overall I would say it was average for a minnesota car.
I'd like to fix the rusty spots on it, and make it presentable. Kind of a gift to myself for graduating from college. As it stands now it might need new shift bushings. a shift boot and a new knod (not a fan of the momo knob). Then it would be a viable driver.
How much do new shift bushings cost?
I think the rack is leaking so thats why theres no power steering. The paint is pretty good from what I can tell. The rusty spots were a drawback from how the paint looked. Overall I would say it was average for a minnesota car.
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Go to www.bavauto.com and check out their online catalog. I saw that a vinyl replacment shift boot costs $11, and the shift arm bushing is $13.
No, that clunk is a worn out drive shaft center support bering. Mine has it too. It's part number 26 12 1 225 152 at www.bavauto.com (put that string of numbers into the search field). If you get it, and replace that, make sure you replace the Guibo (flex disk) part number 26 11 1 209 168.
I already have my parts to replace mine (on my 88 325is -- different part numbers but same basic thing.)
I usually hear it when it's very cold, or when i'm accelerating hard while turning.
I already have my parts to replace mine (on my 88 325is -- different part numbers but same basic thing.)
I usually hear it when it's very cold, or when i'm accelerating hard while turning.
I know this site is for the E34 5 series, but you can get a general idea of what needs to be replaced... http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Transmission/CenterBearing.htm
